For the uninitiated, you may be confused as you wander drugstore aisles and see these new products milling about. Primers, concealers and other products now no longer just come in white and nude colours, but purples, greens, pinks, reds, yellows and even blues. Some seem like very wrong-looking foundations, whilst others look like strange lipgloss tubes, and others like new creamy pastel eyeshadows.
This is the world of colour correcting.
Now, colour correcting is not exactly new. As with a lot of things in makeup, it’s been something that’s there but has recently picked up steam as the “new in thing” (remember when we all started “baking” when drag queens had been doing it forever?). Because of this we’re seeing releases of colour correcting products left, right and centre, and it is very difficult to know what could potentially work for you, or not.
[I want to make very clear from here that I am no expert in colour correcting, just as I am no expert with makeup in general. This is something I do for fun and experimentation. It’s a hobby, and there are far more experienced makeup artists on the internet who can give you better advice. I’m just trying to let you know the things I’ve learned as a girl who simply likes makeup.]
So basically, colour correcting is the process of evening the skintone of your face. Our faces are pigmented in different ways varying in reasons, from blemishes to dark circles to sallowness to patchiness of melanin, and this can cause your face to be very different colours in different places (particularly if you are white or light-skinned).
It takes the premise of using a colour at the opposite end of the colour wheel in order to counteract skintone differentiations.
So, if you have a lot of blemishes or have rosacea which causes reddish or pinkish-ness of the skin, then that should be counteracted with green. If you have circles under your eyes which are often of a blue tint, then that should be counteracted with a coral-ish colour through to darker red (depending on the darkness of your skin). If you have sallowness or a yellow tone to parts of your skin, that can be corrected with purple. If you have dark bruising or very evident facial veins and acne scarring, that can be evened out with yellow.
It can seem confusing, but if you don’t learn the uses of colour correcting products, then you could end up with one that actually exacerbates your problems, in the same way as wearing a foundation of the completely wrong colour.
Colour correcting is something I have wanted to try for a little while now. The skin on my face seems very skin and is pretty translucent. I am also very blemish-prone, and that leads to skin that when I have no makeup on is a palette of reds and purples and blues and whites. Because the blemishes I have are pretty much all over my face, alongside a touch of rosacea, I think a green-toned primer or base corrector would work well on me, but I really wanted to try a palette straight off.
I saw this Nyx palette a while ago and thought it seemed pretty good for me. The colours are very pastel and non-intense, which I like the idea of as I think a highly pigmented corrector is just going to be too much on my light skin. I also like that you get so many colours in here, which I though was good for a first-time colour correcting user, as if you find that you’ve “gone wrong” in a colour choice to correct a certain patch of skin, you could try another one, or even blend two together.
I got this one from the Nyx store in Barcelona, but if you’re in the UK you can now get Nyx products from Boots!
Anyway let me get on with showing you how I did first time:
This is my natural skin. As well as being very fair, you will also note that I have a lot of blemishes, redness along my cheeks, nose and chin, thin blue skin around my eyes, and evident veins on my eyelids and tops of my cheekbones. It’s not fabulous but it’s workable with.
I followed the standard guidelines for colour correcting, and here’s what my face looked like once I applied the colour correctors:
I used a flat makeup brush to apply this, and I leaned very quickly that a little goes a looooong way with this palette. The concealers are super creamy and more pigmented than I expected, and so it was difficult to get the amount I needed to use right.
I used the coral-pinkish colour around my eyes, green on my blemishes, and yellow on all the bits of my face that have very evident veins and on my chin for my acne scarring. You can see that it worked very well on certain places (e.g. the pink around my eyes) and covered up certain areas perfectly, however that could be due to the amount I put on and not the properties of the product itself.
And this is what I looked like once that was blended out. I used the pointed end of my Spectrum Collections Unicorn Tears sponge on my blemishes, and the tapered end of my Real Techniques Miracle Complexion Sponge on all other areas, dabbing instead of sweeping so the colour was not displaced.
I want to point out that I feel I used way too much of the product. My face felt and looked a but “cakey”, and in the future I would certainly use less product. You can still see tinges of green on my blemishes, however, I feel this worked really, really well. I don’t usually show the process of putting my makeup on, so you will have to trust me when I say that I can not get this result from using ordinary concealer. The areas I were most impressed with were the inner corners of my eyes, and my chin. My chin is usually the bane when it comes to trying to cover up, and I can’t believe I managed to get some evenness to it at last!
After using this, I went on to apply the rest of my makeup for going out.
[I’ll be doing a post on this look in a minute]
I definitely feel like this makes a difference. As I stated, I did feel a little cakey, especially once I had applied Lock It on top of my base, which is a heavy product in and of itself, so in the future will use a bit less. However, I highly rate this product as a colour correcting newb! My advice to you would be the same as I’m going to give myself: experiment. Find what colours you need, what colours work, and eventually I’m sure we’ll find a mix that is a perfect coverage for our skin.
What experiences do you all have with colour correcting? Do you have a product that is your go-to?